No place feels more like going home to me than hiking up to Acephale. I spent 7 seasons climbing almost exclusively there. I learned and grew so much as a climber by projecting routes at Acephale. It's where I sent my first 12c, 12d, 13a, 13b, 13c, 13d, 14a, 14b, 14c, and 14d. Yes, that's every single grade from 12c to 14d. The first route I ever bolted is also at Acephale.
People ask me all the time about my training regime. In short, it involves projecting at Acephale through days that are too wet, too hot, too cold, too sore, too little skin, too tired, too whatever. I definitely attribute most of my success to climbing there. To show for it, of the 86 currently established routes, I've done 82 of them.
Right now, the Bow Valley is experiencing the driest rock climbing season I've ever seen. I can't believe June Monsoon has come and gone with barely a couple days of rain. Combined with the lack of snow melt this year, the crags have managed to avoid any seepage at all. I haven't lived in Alberta super long but I imagine this has to be a season like no other. Even the epically wet Kinder Surprise Project doesn't have a single wet hold right now.
After spending very little time at Acephale last year, I find myself drawn back to it's humbling walls yet again and I've realized how much I miss climbing there. Acephale will always hold a special place in my heart and probably will always be my favorite place to climb. This is a collection of photos taken over the years.
People ask me all the time about my training regime. In short, it involves projecting at Acephale through days that are too wet, too hot, too cold, too sore, too little skin, too tired, too whatever. I definitely attribute most of my success to climbing there. To show for it, of the 86 currently established routes, I've done 82 of them.
Right now, the Bow Valley is experiencing the driest rock climbing season I've ever seen. I can't believe June Monsoon has come and gone with barely a couple days of rain. Combined with the lack of snow melt this year, the crags have managed to avoid any seepage at all. I haven't lived in Alberta super long but I imagine this has to be a season like no other. Even the epically wet Kinder Surprise Project doesn't have a single wet hold right now.
After spending very little time at Acephale last year, I find myself drawn back to it's humbling walls yet again and I've realized how much I miss climbing there. Acephale will always hold a special place in my heart and probably will always be my favorite place to climb. This is a collection of photos taken over the years.
Pulling the upper crux of Existence Mundane. Photo Tim Mooney.
This is what the walls typically look like at this time of year. Not the case this year.
Josh Muller and I plowing the approach trail in 2013. No need to those shenanigans this year!
Sheena Stares cruising up a very wet Jingus Americanus, 5.12d in typical June Acephale conditions.
The 2013 floods put a damper on things, turning a once beautiful trail into this mess.
A proud effort from a few motivated individuals turned this into the trail that is enjoyed today.
Establishing the new parking lot and approach trail following the 2013 floods.
Working the crux of Leviathan, my very first 5.14. Photo Nick Straub.
Video of one of my (failed) redpoint attempts of Bunda de Fora.
Leaving off with a photo addressing buckets as Acephale increases in popularity.
Sorry to throw you under the bus buddy.
