I've always climbed regularly at the gym in the winter, but never with any structure. This winter I wanted to change it up and commit to a training regimen. Having never tried it before, I was curious how it would go and what the results would be.
For the most part I still focused on climbing with an emphasis on movement over raw power. This lead me to question what the difference is between climbing and training but I decided the answer is that training is climbing with structure.
I had some specific sport climbing goals in mind and certain muscle groups I needed to strengthen. I've always climbed primarily for fun and wanted to keep my training routine that way which helps me stay psyched and prevent burnout. Circuit training seemed like a good choice for me.
My circuits consisted of roughly 50 moves. I picked that number for my current purposes and I think it could be adjusted to particular goals. Harder/less moves or easier/more moves etc. With the number of moves in mind, I set circuits that I could just barely not complete, falling off near the end to simulate redpoint attempts on hard power endurance routes. Eventually with repetition, the circuits would feel easier and I would send and it was time to move on to a new circuit.
I focused on harder moves going up, trying to simulate crux sections of particular projects, and easier moves on the down climbing sections. I didn't think it was important to have hard downclimbing moves but interestingly downclimbing skills actually came in handy at the Hurricave. Setting the circuit took a bit of work and tweaking as I wanted to have moves hard enough that I felt I could fall throughout the whole circuit, but I never actually fell until the very end.
Circuit training was great for the endurance and power endurance but I felt it was necessary to work on power as well so I incorporated max effort boulder problems prior to doing circuits. It was great to have my wife and main climbing partner, Sheena, who knows my climbing very well to make up problems for me so I could work on my sequencing at the same time.
In between sets I would rest as long as I needed and I also worked in a variety of leg exercises to strengthen my knees and hamstrings. This was for a heel hooking injury I sustained in Australia last spring and also to prepare for grueling Bow Valley approaches.
I ended up training roughly 1 day on 1 day off for 2 one month cycles in between trips as well as taking a month completely off from climbing which I do every year.
I'm lucky enough to be able to travel frequently and I still went on 2 trips this winter, both to the Hurricave in southern Utah, a great way to get some early results on my circuit training. The first trip which was after one cycle seemed no different than any other trip but the second trip after a second cycle of training produced incredible results. I felt significantly stronger and had my best trip ever in terms of sending. Perhaps it was just a good trip, or perhaps it was the training. We will see because it's time for outdoor season in the Bow Valley and I'm psyched to get back on my summer projects!
For the most part I still focused on climbing with an emphasis on movement over raw power. This lead me to question what the difference is between climbing and training but I decided the answer is that training is climbing with structure.
I had some specific sport climbing goals in mind and certain muscle groups I needed to strengthen. I've always climbed primarily for fun and wanted to keep my training routine that way which helps me stay psyched and prevent burnout. Circuit training seemed like a good choice for me.
What's needed is a filled wall at an angle you want to train on.
My circuits consisted of roughly 50 moves. I picked that number for my current purposes and I think it could be adjusted to particular goals. Harder/less moves or easier/more moves etc. With the number of moves in mind, I set circuits that I could just barely not complete, falling off near the end to simulate redpoint attempts on hard power endurance routes. Eventually with repetition, the circuits would feel easier and I would send and it was time to move on to a new circuit.
I focused on harder moves going up, trying to simulate crux sections of particular projects, and easier moves on the down climbing sections. I didn't think it was important to have hard downclimbing moves but interestingly downclimbing skills actually came in handy at the Hurricave. Setting the circuit took a bit of work and tweaking as I wanted to have moves hard enough that I felt I could fall throughout the whole circuit, but I never actually fell until the very end.
Climbing at the Hurricave in Utah. Photo Victor Acevedo.
Circuit training was great for the endurance and power endurance but I felt it was necessary to work on power as well so I incorporated max effort boulder problems prior to doing circuits. It was great to have my wife and main climbing partner, Sheena, who knows my climbing very well to make up problems for me so I could work on my sequencing at the same time.
In between sets I would rest as long as I needed and I also worked in a variety of leg exercises to strengthen my knees and hamstrings. This was for a heel hooking injury I sustained in Australia last spring and also to prepare for grueling Bow Valley approaches.
I ended up training roughly 1 day on 1 day off for 2 one month cycles in between trips as well as taking a month completely off from climbing which I do every year.
Life of Villains gets it's difficulty from a section of about 26 moves of power endurance.
Photo by Tom Moulin.
Stoneworks project is another power endurance route. Photo by Niall Hamill.
